Automakers who offer pre-owned certified cars are an excellent way to purchase a "pre-owned" car with the support of the automaker behind it. Volvo Certified Pre-Owned Car Program, for instance, offers reconditioned two- to four-year-old Volvos, with under 60,000 miles, which undergo painstakingly thorough inspections and reconditioning. The vehicle then comes with a 24 month/24,000 mile Volvo Certified Limited Warranty with zero deductible; affordable financing options; two seventy-five dollar vouchers for service at a Volvo retailer; 24-hour On-Call Roadside Assistance; and the Tire Protection Plan.
There are a number of personal considerations to evaluate before beginning the search for a "new" used car -- how the car fits your image; how it fits your lifestyle; whether it meets your security needs; and if it is going to be reliable and cost effective to maintain. When you reach the point of evaluating a specific vehicle, many of the above questions have been answered already. Now it is necessary to examine the condition of that selected car from those available for sale.
Much of this evaluation can be conducted by an informed buyer, but it is important to prepare psychologically for the process. Most people will keep their used car for about four years. Spending a week or two on research and the same on car hunting can pay dividends in the long run. Buyers that do their research in advance frequently know more about the type of car they are buying than the person selling it. Work up a check list and have contracts ready. This is bound to impress the seller and increase the respect with which you are treated.
Remember you are the buyer and control the process. When dealing with an assertive and confident salesperson or car owner, don't let them take charge. Excuse yourself -- take some time -- review the options, and then decide whether to return.
How The Car Fits Your Image
At this stage, you have probably decided which type of car is appropriate for your needs. But if you haven't, read the article "Selecting The Correct Make And Model." After narrowing the search to a particular make and model, begin considering the condition of specific vehicles -- what level of "used" is acceptable? Even the sportiest car loses its allure if it is painted dull brown -- faded and nicked. Upholstery that is worn and torn or an odor from a smoking driver can be a turnoff. Correcting problems like these are more expensive than finding the right car that has none of these defects and has been well maintained. Usually exterior ill-treatment is a good indication of how the car has been serviced and attended to mechanically.
At the same time, many people take modest cars and add glitzy trim items, window treatments, wheels, vinyl tops and gold kits -- thus enhancing the vehicle to fit their own personal image. Don't ever pay extra for these items and contemplate whether you want the attention that goes along with questionable displays of taste. In fact, it is sometimes dangerous to have these "extras" as they can catch the eye not only of thieves, but the police as well. It may be easier to shop for the best base model car and add things like stereos, sunroofs, or performance items after the sale is completed.
How It Fits Your Lifestyle
Having decided on a type of car, there will frequently be many variations in the number and extent of options available between different makes and models. Additionally, the options in the same car, but manufactured in different years, can vary dramatically. While a base model and the fully-loaded version differ widely in price when new, once they have a few years under their wheels, the variation in price lessens or disappears. Look for the model with the power seats, windows and mirrors; look for extras such as roof racks or sunroofs; be aware of when the engine size or features changed.
Each automaker (and even model) designates different model identification letters for their feature packages, so start by finding out those designations for the car under consideration. Research to determine which model, model version and year of make had what particular features and what engine sizes. That way, for instance, it will be clear that a 1995 XL version had the 2.8-liter, 170-horsepower engine with standard power seats and windows, the GL model had the same package but also included power mirrors and door locks, and the DL only offered these features as options. It will come to light that the 1994 model had carburetors, while the 1995 had a more trouble-free electronic fuel injection. This information will save time and effort by keeping you from looking at unsuitable cars.All this information and more can be found by visiting web sites such as CarSmart.com, iMotors.com, Cars.com and AutoWeb.com. They can provide not only pricing information, but the manufacturer specifications for each model version as well.
Power windows are important when regularly using garages where card keys or tickets are required for entry or remote mail boxes. Once vinyl was the answer to easy maintenance for drivers with children, but durable leather interiors have become a popular choice for parents of active youngsters. At the same time, cloth has its benefits in extreme temperatures. Be careful of built-in child seats. The manufacturers should be applauded for offering them, but their useful life is very short for a specific-sized child, and can result in comfort compromises. In fact, a removable version may be preferable.
Whether It Meets Your Security Needs
Safety will be evaluated in two areas -- passive and active. Passive safety is made up of all the features that enhance the car's ability to protect you and avoid accidents or danger. Active features are those you control to protect yourself. It may be preferable to concentrate on the former, but both are helpful.
Passive safety features include the airbags, side-impact airbags, side-impact bars, antilock system for the brakes, chassis structure, crush zones traction control, seat belts, central locking systems, alarms, delayed light extinguishing, and home security links which help keep you and the car safe.
Active items are those under the driver's control to more effectively avoid accidents. They are the driver's primary line of defense. Active safety features include high quality, reliable brakes -- particularly front and rear disc brakes as they are more modern and reliable than the old drum brakes, especially under wet conditions. Handling is another component which involves stiffer suspension so that the car reacts instantly to commands. Vehicle power is also important as it determines the car's ability to react to the driver's demand for acceleration in situations where speeding past danger is preferable to a sudden stop.
Obviously, the driver is the most important active safety device in a car, and a good driving attitude, honed car control skills, and elimination of distractions will save much grief. Picking the best route to drive, maintaining distance from other vehicles while on the highway, and choosing the best place to park will protect more than any device. Actively remembering to use your seat belt is an important interaction with one of the most important passive safety features in a car -- one so many people forget to use or think they can do without. Unfortunately the press and public have paid much more attention to the major passive features like airbags, side impact bars, and antilock brakes that only come into play when there is a problem. A driver's level of concentration, skill and willingness to buckle-up are the most effective tools for avoiding problems.
Don't overlook safe cars just because they don't have all the latest safety features. Though airbags are a critical feature of automotive safety, the best safety device is an alert driver. It is so much better to never have to experience the importance of an airbag.
Will It Be Reliable And Cost Effective To Maintain
Selecting a vehicle with obvious need for work can be a way of obtaining a low-cost car. However, taking on repair projects without a firm estimate of the costs can be disastrous. Determine the investment by finding everything involved including time (waiting for repairs to be completed), labor, parts and personal headaches. The greatest used-car lie might just be -- "that little problem can be taken care of for less than twenty bucks!"
Additionally, it is important to determine future maintenance costs and ascertain what major repairs might be upcoming. Intellichoice offers information on maintenance costs. But this can be a sticky subject. If the vehicle is purchased through a dealer, read and understand the warranty. Late model cars might have some of the original manufacturer's warranty remaining, which is usually transferable to the new owner. When buying from an individual, either purchase a stand-alone warranty directly from a warranty seller or go it alone. Find out more about extended warranties in Carl Andrews' article, "Used Cars and Warranties."
Again, some of these issues can be avoided by purchasing a certified pre-owned car, such as those found in Volvo Certified Pre-Owned Car Program, which come with a 24 month/24,000 mile Volvo Certified Limited Warranty with zero deductible; affordable financing options; two seventy-five dollar vouchers for service at a Volvo retailer; 24-hour On-Call Roadside Assistance; and the Tire Protection Plan. Rest more easily knowing that the manufacturer is standing behind its product, even when it is not brand new.
Is The Car In Good Enough Shape To Buy
Regardless of where a car is purchased, it is important not only investigate the vehicle itself, but also to understand the reliability and veracity of the seller -- whether dealer or individual. Pay attention to glib claims and any contradictions. Write those claims and promises into the sales contract when finalizing the deal.
Automakers who offer pre-owned certified cars are an excellent way to purchase a "pre-owned" car with the support of the automaker behind it. Volvo Certified Pre-Owned Car Program, for instance, offers reconditioned two- to four-year-old Volvos, with under 60,000 miles, which undergo painstakingly thorough inspections and reconditioning. The vehicle then comes with a 24 month/24,000 mile Volvo Certified Limited Warranty with zero deductible; affordable financing options; two seventy-five dollar vouchers for service at a Volvo retailer; 24-hour On-Call Roadside Assistance; and the Tire Protection Plan.
There are a number of personal considerations to evaluate before beginning the search for a "new" used car -- how the car fits your image; how it fits your lifestyle; whether it meets your security needs; and if it is going to be reliable and cost effective to maintain. When you reach the point of evaluating a specific vehicle, many of the above questions have been answered already. Now it is necessary to examine the condition of that selected car from those available for sale.
Much of this evaluation can be conducted by an informed buyer, but it is important to prepare psychologically for the process. Most people will keep their used car for about four years. Spending a week or two on research and the same on car hunting can pay dividends in the long run. Buyers that do their research in advance frequently know more about the type of car they are buying than the person selling it. Work up a check list and have contracts ready. This is bound to impress the seller and increase the respect with which you are treated.
Remember you are the buyer and control the process. When dealing with an assertive and confident salesperson or car owner, don't let them take charge. Excuse yourself -- take some time -- review the options, and then decide whether to return.
How The Car Fits Your Image
At this stage, you have probably decided which type of car is appropriate for your needs. But if you haven't, read the article "Selecting The Correct Make And Model." After narrowing the search to a particular make and model, begin considering the condition of specific vehicles -- what level of "used" is acceptable? Even the sportiest car loses its allure if it is painted dull brown -- faded and nicked. Upholstery that is worn and torn or an odor from a smoking driver can be a turnoff. Correcting problems like these are more expensive than finding the right car that has none of these defects and has been well maintained. Usually exterior ill-treatment is a good indication of how the car has been serviced and attended to mechanically.
At the same time, many people take modest cars and add glitzy trim items, window treatments, wheels, vinyl tops and gold kits -- thus enhancing the vehicle to fit their own personal image. Don't ever pay extra for these items and contemplate whether you want the attention that goes along with questionable displays of taste. In fact, it is sometimes dangerous to have these "extras" as they can catch the eye not only of thieves, but the police as well. It may be easier to shop for the best base model car and add things like stereos, sunroofs, or performance items after the sale is completed.
How It Fits Your Lifestyle
Having decided on a type of car, there will frequently be many variations in the number and extent of options available between different makes and models. Additionally, the options in the same car, but manufactured in different years, can vary dramatically. While a base model and the fully-loaded version differ widely in price when new, once they have a few years under their wheels, the variation in price lessens or disappears. Look for the model with the power seats, windows and mirrors; look for extras such as roof racks or sunroofs; be aware of when the engine size or features changed.
Each automaker (and even model) designates different model identification letters for their feature packages, so start by finding out those designations for the car under consideration. Research to determine which model, model version and year of make had what particular features and what engine sizes. That way, for instance, it will be clear that a 1995 XL version had the 2.8-liter, 170-horsepower engine with standard power seats and windows, the GL model had the same package but also included power mirrors and door locks, and the DL only offered these features as options. It will come to light that the 1994 model had carburetors, while the 1995 had a more trouble-free electronic fuel injection. This information will save time and effort by keeping you from looking at unsuitable cars.All this information and more can be found by visiting web sites such as CarSmart.com, iMotors.com, Cars.com and AutoWeb.com. They can provide not only pricing information, but the manufacturer specifications for each model version as well.
Ask for maintenance receipts and documents. It is impressive when an owner keeps a complete file of bills. A mechanic or someone familiar with automotive repair can tell a lot about the car from these records. A person who has a good set of records usually has given the car regular maintenance. And that means it's probably a better car all around. However, look at the receipts carefully. See if they are for the subject car and if they are all from the same area and for the years the owner claims to have had the car. If the same item has been repaired more than once, ask questions and point out that fact to your mechanic when the car is reviewed. Inconsistencies in maintenance records also can provide insight into the seller's dedication to the vehicle's upkeep.
Inspect areas that ordinarily show wear -- tires, door sills, pedals and seat belts -- and use them as a guide to determine if the wear matches the odometer. If the miles are very low but everything is worn out, something is amiss. Conversely if the miles are high and everything in the car is squeaky clean the car could be a great deal. On the other hand, the seller could be trying to hide something. Lift up and look under the floor mats, especially if they look new. New mats may not mean the odometer has been reset, but may be a hint of heavy usage. Read on for more information about odometer readings.
A clean, polished car with a sparkling engine compartment may indicate good maintenance, but sometimes it just means that the seller has hidden their sins with a $100 detailing job. This is where the contradictions between wear points and the feedback of your mechanic will help.
Ask where the car has been driven and under what conditions. Northern roads have moisture and chemicals to melt snow and ice, and seaside places have salt which causes corrosion -- perhaps more important to operating systems than merely body appearance. Hot climates cause interiors to deteriorate, paint to fade and belts and hoses to have shorter lives. It also puts an extra load on air conditioners. Once again, see that the location of the receipts matches the claims.
Turn on the lights in sequence and walk around checking them all, including directional and brake lights. It also provides time to further contemplate the car. Today's lights are no longer $1 replacement items. Some lights can cost hundreds of dollars. Check the horn for both sound and ease of operation. Are the wipers soft and streak-free when the washers are turned on -- remember to check rear wipers if there are any.
Tires should be worn evenly from side to side, with no ripples or scuffing. Variations indicate bad components or alignment or, at the very least, hard driving. Worn tires will have to be replaced. A full set of decent tires will cost $300 or more.
Test Driving
Set aside plenty of time to test drive each car under consideration. Test drives determine everything from whether the car fits your physique to exposing poor handling and strange noises. Consider whether the car is comfortable. Can the seat be adjusted to the proper position for reaching the controls and still maintain a minimum of 10" for airbag clearance? After adjusting the front seat, sit in the back seat. Imagine loading the trunk with bags for a trip, groceries, special work equipment or sports gear. How do the belts hook up and feel? Check for good visibility through the windows and mirrors. Parallel park the car to check for any difficulty or blind spots.
Make sure the shift lever, brake pedal, clutch and accelerator feel comfortable. If you are testing an SUV, engage and disengage the 4WD to test how easily and intuitively it operates. Determine if the heater and AC operate well and efficiently. Check for air from all the vents. Turn on the rear defogger grid and touch the glass to feel if it is heating.
The engine should start easily, idle smoothly and accelerate without hitches. How is power affected by use of the air conditioning? Check transmission upshifts under normal driving. Then get on a freeway or do an onramp simulation starting at 20 mph. Try an aggressive pass or simulate one by starting to accelerate from 45 mph. Get on and off the gas at a modest speed, listening for clunks that may indicate loose joints in the drive line. Listen for excessive noise with the windows and sunroof both open and closed.
Choose a route to drive that includes rough roads and straight highways. Check the position of the steering wheel and see if it is straight. Does the car pull to one side on a straight road (some minor drift to the right is common from drainage sloping in the road). Try out the brakes in a clear area, braking hard from at least 50 mph to check operation and swerving. If the car has ABS, you will feel the the system at work and you will have more control over where the cars stops. (Research will tell if the model being considered has ABS.) Engage the handbrake and try to accelerate against it to see if it's in good shape.
Note: If you have never driven a car with an Antilock Brake System (ABS), the vibration you feel when stepping on the pedal is the ABS at work. It will feel strange at first but it is operating correctly.
Drive over rough roads, listening for rattles and squeaks. Remember this is not a new car, but call your mechanic's attention to any unidentifiable sound. Swerve sharply but smoothly from side to side, listening for clunks that may indicate loose suspension. Similar noises under acceleration or braking are hints of brake and drivetrain problems.
Be sure to check all radio and CD operations. They are expensive to repair. Turn the volume and the bass up and see if there is any distortion or buzz indicating poor usage and blown speakers.
Make sure to operate every switch, cycle every system, and open each door. I'll admit to buying a used car from a dealer and a week later, opening a rear door to find it falling off worn-through hinges. I believed the dealer when he told me he hadn't even tried opening the back door himself, but I was culpable for not opening all the doors to make sure they were in proper shape. Make sure the car has a manual, good spare tire, jack and tire tool. These little things can be very expensive to fix or replace. Try using everything, even the obvious.
How To Tell If A Car Has Been In An Accident
The real judge is your independent mechanic, who not only can determine if there is accident damage but how well the repairs were done. There is no reason to reject a well-repaired car, but knowledge of a repair is a negotiating benefit. Most states require that the title show if a vehicle has been totaled, flooded or salvaged . When purchasing a damaged car, be careful and negotiate ruthlessly. It is important to see a new version of the car's title since if the copy the owner has is older, it may not reflect salvage or other conditions that should be recorded. If you suspect some damage, call the local Department of Motor Vehicles and find out the procedure and cost to obtain a new copy of the title. If there are any suspicions regarding the seller, require a new copy of the title as a condition of the sale and make sure to receive a full refund of your deposit or purchase price should it reflect flooding or salvage status.
Look for differences in paint color, sheen or texture. Normally you'll see these differences and separations along a body panel or styling line. A poor repair job will still have ripples in the damaged panel when compared with the other side. More extensive damage will show up in body seams that are uneven or welds under the hood or trunk. Stand at the back or front of the vehicle, squat down and look at the sides from that perspective. If the doors don't match up to the body panels or there are ripples in the sheet metal, point that out to the mechanic reviewing the car.
Make sure your mechanic checks the condition of the impact-absorbing features of the 5-mph bumpers. They are designed to handle one impact at a low speed (such as backing into another car in a parking lot) without showing much damage, but the second time the bumper gets hit it can mean a big repair bill. Ask your mechanic to determine if the 5-mph bumpers have ever been used.
After the drive, park the car in a clean spot -- a light-colored concrete surface is preferable to dark asphalt -- and let the car sit while going over your checklist. After 10 to 15 minutes, roll the car back and look for signs of fresh leaks. This can be a good psychological ploy. Small drips may not be indicative, but puddles of oil or coolant are signs for alarm. Remember though, air conditioners will spill water after they have been turned off. That's the result of normal condensation in the cooling process.
Determining The Accuracy Of The Odometer
I have bought over 400 cars from a variety of companies and individuals, and only once found a reset odometer. The situation involved a young professional woman who let her boyfriend coerce her into setting the odometer back so she could get a few hundred dollars more for the car. She was embarrassed when I caught on, and refunded far more money than called for by the difference in mileage.
I emphasize that the vast majority of people are honest, and the penalty for getting caught is severe, since it constitutes fraud.
Start the odometer investigation by asking early in the inspection process about the average number of miles the owner drives each year. Of course, this information is not available when purchasing from a dealership. Next, look for contradictions in the paperwork. Mileage is generally recorded on service records. If the last servicing was a year ago and the car has only an additional 500 miles, something is probably wrong. Remember to check the door stickers placed on the car when it was serviced. If mileage is listed, compare it to the odometer. If the mileage cannot be determined from the maintenance records, or there are none, ask what shops normally did their repairs. If the owner reveals it was maintained by a particular shop or dealer, the mileage is probably part of their records. Call and ask what was last recorded. Remember these measures are not part of a normal buying process, but only needed in the rare event that you are concerned about the incorrect mileage.
By comparing the mileage and date on the title, you can usually infer something, such as why the car has only have 3,000 miles on it after being owned for two years. If the document record is complete up to a year or so ago, then a reset odometer is a possibility. Missing paperwork may mean the seller is trying to hide something. On the Veeder- Root -type odometers with the numbers that roll on numbered wheels, misaligned numbers may be an indication to check further. Digital odometers have extensive tamper-proof features.
