The silence in the forest is broken by the crunch, crunch of our big feet along a snowy trail. Surrounded by pillows of snow and towers of cedar, hemlock and fir, our group of four does a rhythmic clomp on snowshoes. It's difficult to believe that a short distance away thousands of skiers are revelling on the slopes of Whistler, one of North America's favourite ski resorts. Snowshoes are an idyllic way to get off the beaten track and enjoy British Columbia's Coast Mountains.
"If you can walk, you can snowshoe" is the motto of Outdoor Adventures, the company that provides this guided walk on Atlas lightweight snowshoes. We geared up in their Whistler Village office - boots, snowshoes and lift pass - then boarded the Whistler gondola for a quick swoop to mid-station. Surrounded by skiers, we donned snowshoes and within a few minutes, were in the trees.
"Take small steps going downhill and bend your knees," advised guide Allison Holmes. Thanks to crampons on the toe base of the snowshoe, this is a go-anywhere mode of transportation on snow. It is blissfully silent except for the satisfying sound of snowshoes that make a crunch in the icy sections and a soft whoosh in the fluffy snow. We follow an undulating trail sometimes crossing streams of glacial-fed waters to spot some hare tracks in the snow and hear the chatter of Whiskey Jacks-a saucy member of the Jay bird family.
Since the Whistler mountain experience is usually about zooming down long runs on skis or snowboard, this "walk in the park" version is a unique experience. Part of the fun is the enthusiasm of other participants: "It's the best few hours of my Whistler trip," raves a woman from New York whose family is out on the ski hill. For Australians, like Carol from Darwin, this snow soft adventure is a rarity. She especially enjoys the fact that Alison encourages us to get off the track and romp in soft mounds of fresh snow.
Outdoor Adventures at Whistler offers seven options of snowshoe tours ranging from this one-and-a-half hour walk up the mountain to an evening trek around a lake followed by a fondue feast. For hard core adventurers, there is a back country helicopter trip. Children love the "kids only" excursion that entails games and pizza.
For non-skiers, or those who delight in variety, it's fun to explore the diversity of snow activities at this world-famous resort. Another option is to combine snowshoeing with snowmobiling. If you have never roared the engine of these powerful ski sleds, this is a fine introduction. And the fact that you then snowshoe into a sublime slice of wilderness, adds to the appeal of this three-hour excursion with Cougar Mountain.
You are transported from Whistler Village - Cougar Mountain will pick up and deliver from local hotels - to Ancient Cedars Forest Recreation Area, part of the Resort Municipality of Whistler. At the supply hut, boots and helmet, as well as snowmobile pants and jacket, if required for warmth, are provided. Goggles and gloves are also available; many people wear ski outfits for this excursion.
After a warm-up lesson on snowmobiling by our friendly guide, Kyle, our group of ten are off on this gentle introduction to snowmobiling. Travelling at about 30 kilometres per hour (18 miles per hour), there is time to take in the surrounding snow-laden pinnacles and, on this brilliantly sunny day, enjoy winter at its sparkling best. After travelling just over five kilometres (three miles) we cut into a narrower route and follow uphill to cut our motors and step into snowshoes.
This trek starts with a long uphill but then, it is an easy route in thick forest. Pete, our snowshoe guide, relates nature stories in an entertaining manner such as the legend of the hemlock tree. "He cut into the queue when Mother Nature was giving out pine cones. So she gave him the tiniest one and he hung his head in shame." Sure enough, we become experts at picking out Hemlocks with their droopy top branches. Pete points out "old man's beard" moss that drapes delicately over the evergreens. "When you see this moss, it indicates a pristine area," says Pete. We all agree as we breath crisp, mountain-fresh air.
However, the highlight is still to come. The Ancient Cedars are a stand of some dozen old growth trees. They are breathtakingly beautiful. This area was logged in the late 1800s and these amazing giants were preserved; they reach some 61 metres (200 feet) high and the largest, considered to be about 1,300 years old, would take about six men to join hands and reach around its circumference. Trees of this size are unusual at this elevation - about 1,066 metres (3,500 feet).
It is like walking into an Emily Carr canvas as soft sunlight filters through the dense trees with huge trunks weathered a soft grey and foliage of the deepest greens. As we pause for a snack, everyone is strangely quiet, an acknowledgment that we are in the presence of something very special.
The return snowmobile trip is exciting as we cut through the woods to follow a single track, which is downhill with just enough turns to make it a bit of a challenge. This memorable trip is incredibly well paced with a great mix of action and tranquility.
If you like your snow time a tad softer - and perhaps more romantic - head to Whistler Outdoor Experience housed in a cedar hut on the shores of Green Lake (frozen in winter months). Located near the popular Edgewater Lodge and restaurant, one can snowshoe or Nordic ski around the lake shore and as well as ice skate on the lake. The romance comes in with the horse-drawn sleigh rides. Handsome Belgian draft horses pull a large sleigh for group rides or a private cutter sleigh for two or four. After skirting the lake and enjoying a forested trail, you warm up in front of a fire in a lakeside log cabin. There's truly something for everyone in the Whistler snow scene.
