You have a perfectly serviceable vehicle except for one major problem - the engine is worn out. Should you spend $20,000, $30,000, or much more for a replacement vehicle or just a couple of thousand to recycle the engine? Engine recyclers, that is, rebuilders or remanufacturers, have been recycling engines for as long as there have been engines. Of course the engine has to rebuildable. Engines may not be suitable for rebuilding for several reasons including broken, warped or cracked engine block or excessive cylinder wear.
Then there is the question of a rebuilt engine versus a "brand new" engine. New or "crate" engines are usually the most expensive way to go. However, many automakers and aftermarket suppliers offer "factory remanufactured" engines which, when parts and labor are considered, are quite competitive with rebuilding your engine. Both remanufactured gasoline and diesel engines are available. You will usually have to return a rebuildable engine to get a refund on the "core" charge.
Buying a "used" engine from a junk yard, now called "automotive recycling centers," can be iffy. While the engine might come with a guaranteed-to-run warranty, you could spend many hours installing the engine only to find it does not run properly and has to be returned. If you go this route, try to find an engine that can be started up and run. Then have it checked it out thoroughly - compression, oil condition, oil and coolant leaks, emissions, and so forth.
Rebuilt engines often carry longer warranty periods than new engines. A "factory" new engine will often carry a 90 day or 4,000 mile warranty, while a similar engine rebuilt by a professional engine rebuilder will usually be warranteed for 12 months or 12,000 miles. Professional engine rebuilders are highly trained machinists and many belong to the Automotive Engine Rebuilders Association.
According to the AERA, when a properly rebuilt engine fails to give satisfactory service, it is usually due to several causes traceable to the engine's treatment during "break-in." These first few rpms and miles are the most critical in assuring a long engine life. Here are some tips from the AERA for breaking-in a newly installed engine.
Follow the engine manufacturer recommendations or owner's manual on the proper type of oil to be used during and after the break-in period. Use heavy-duty detergent oils which contain an EP (extreme pressure) additive right from the start. Special "break-in" oils should not be used unless specified by the manufacturer.
The AERA does not recommend the use of synthetic oils for the first 5,000 miles. Synthetic oils' outstanding ability to reduce wear by virtually eliminating friction is not desirable for a break-in oil. Certain predictable amounts of friction are required for proper break-in of piston and piston rings.
Before starting the engine for the first time, recheck to make sure it has been properly pre-lubricated. Start the engine and run at fast idle, approximately 1500 RPM, and check the oil pressure. Run the engine for 30 minutes even though coolant may rise to operating temperature in a few minutes. If the coolant should boil over, stop engine and allow it to cool. Then start again and proceed as above. Overheating here is probably because of still high friction, but check for other problems.
Check for air leakage from manifolds which can cause lean air-fuel ratio and leading to harmful detonation. When required, retorque cylinder heads and manifolds to engine manufacturer's specifications in proper sequence.
Make a test run on the road at 30 mph in drive or select the proper gears for a manual transmission. Periodically accelerate to 50 mph and decelerate rapidly. Repeat this procedure at least 10 times. Applying loads to the engine for short periods of time causes increased ring pressure against the cylinder walls to help seat the rings. This is especially important because you are breaking-in with heavy duty oils. The rapid deceleration increases vacuum and gives extra lubrication to the piston and ring assemblies.
Drive normally but not at continuous high speeds or under heavy loads for the first 500 miles. Change oil and filters after 500 miles. Avoid "lugging." Operate with only light loads. Occasional acceleration and deceleration in proper gear during this period is advisable. After 1000 miles of service, retorque cylinder heads and manifolds to proper specifications.
NOTE: This information is provided from the best available sources, however, the AERA does not assume responsibility for data accuracy or consequences of its applications.
